Masha Popova – Voices from Central Saint Martins

Masha Popova

Journal

Masha Popova, the eponymous brand helmed by the Ukrainian-born, London-based womenswear designer, has garnered acclaim for her fusion of wearable high-fashion denim designs. These creations seamlessly intertwine fantasy with her Ukrainian roots and cherished childhood memories.

Securing a coveted place in Central Saint Martins’s Fashion Foundation program in 2013, Popova charted a trajectory marked by innovation. Her journey was characterized by an unwavering exploration of experimental craft techniques, including her finesse in crafting textiles through digital embroidery. Interning under the mentorship of John Galliano at Maison Margiela and gaining exposure at renowned fashion houses like Fiorucci and Céline enriched her experience.

Masha Popova’s creations have adorned luminaries such as Dua Lipa, Billie Eilish, Bella Hadid, Kylie Jenner, among others. The brand serves as a convergence of two worlds: marrying late 20th-century high fashion with the raw, energetic essence of 90s-00s clothing, epitomizing a carefree attitude. Popova’s irreverent approach to sensuality, intertwined with dynamic draping and a subversive use of materials, serves as the artistic arsenal to craft collections that exude both elegance and carefree sophistication.

We’ve been fortunate to collaborate with Masha Popova on multiple projects which consistently showcase the integration of cutting-edge sustainable finishing technologies like ozone and laser. During these engagements, we took the opportunity to chat with her, exploring her insights and future perspectives.

What kind of project did you develop with Tonello?

At Tonello, we focused on refining denim and leather treatments for my MA collection at Central Saint Martins. Denim was my deliberate choice due to its entrenched position in pop culture and everyday wear. I sought to bridge the gap between high fashion and everyday attire, infusing elements of ’90s and ’00s casual chic into the mix. My manipulation of denim involved stitching, bleaching, and deconstruction to create patterns, crushed pleats, and unconventional flower prints—attributes that contrast with traditional high fashion.

Understanding the significant environmental impact of typical denim treatments involving chemicals, excessive water use and resulting water pollution, I actively sought a forward-looking partner. Fortunately, I was fortunate to collaborate with Tonello, a company dedicated to developing new, eco-friendly technologies. Their approach eschews harmful chemicals, prioritizes water conservation through reduced consumption and recycled water.

This collection aims to challenge conventional beauty standards by elevating imperfection as the epitome of allure. Embracing an unconventional sense of oddity and employing materials in subversive ways imbues this sophisticated collection with a carefree elegance—an irreverent elegance.

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How did you find yourself in collaborating with Tonello?

Working with Tonello was an incredible experience that I’m immensely grateful for.

As a recent graduate, I hadn’t previously collaborated with any laundry facilities, so starting with Tonello was a true blessing. Their receptiveness to my ideas, their level of creativity, and their unwavering support were consistently outstanding.

Frankly, when I initially reached out to them, I never anticipated our collaboration would turn out to be this remarkable. They displayed incredible patience throughout the process, meticulously navigating through numerous trials to achieve the desired results. Furthermore, our experimentation extended to treating my leather printed textiles alongside denim, which yielded exceptional outcomes.

Overall, the entire experience was incredibly thrilling, and the pieces treated at Tonello emerged as some of the most successful in the entire collection.

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What is your position today? What are you doing now?

I’ve recently completed my MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins. Right now, I’m taking a short break to “reset” myself, to ponder over my work, the industry, how I envision my role within it, and what changes I’d like to make.

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How do you imagine your personal and professional future? Do you have any upcoming project?

I’m open to the opportunities that come my way. It feels more exciting than strictly planning every aspect of life ahead.

In the meantime, I’ll let you browse around on my website: enjoy and see you soon, I hope! 😉

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