Water-repellent fabric: what it is, how it is made, and when it is needed

This term refers to a fabric that, thanks to a surface treatment, does not immediately absorb water. Rather, the droplets collect in beads and run off: this is known as “beading”, but does not equate to complete waterproofing.
If the rain is heavy or lengthy, or if pressure is applied at the point of contact (i.e. the shoulder strap of a backpack, a knee resting on the fabric), the water can overcome the barrier and penetrate between the fibers.
The difference when compared to waterproof garments is this: waterproof garments are designed to withstand much greater exposure times and pressure and, often have membranes, taped seams, and sealed zippers.
Water repellency, on the other hand, protects against the unexpected, and prioritizes comfort and breathability.

Water-repellent, waterproof, or water-resistant fabric?

In everyday language, the three terms are often used interchangeably, but they are not synonymous.
Waterproof refers to complete protection: performance is measured using tests such as the “water column,” which indicates how much pressure the fabric can withstand before allowing water to penetrate.
Water-resistant refers more to the quality of the fabric structure: the compact weave slows down the entry of moisture, but does not block it for long.
Water-repellent fabric falls somewhere in between: the surface is treated with a finish called DWR (Durable Water Repellent) to make water roll off.
In practice, if you’re running around town, going to work, or doing light outdoor activities, this is often the most balanced solution: it keeps you dry in most real-world situations and allows your body to breathe better than a completely waterproof shell.

The effect is achieved by reducing the surface tension of the fabric.
In simple terms, the surface becomes less “friendly” to water: the drop cannot “cling” to it and rolls off. This is achieved with specific finishes, DWR treatments, which can be applied to the fabric or directly to the finished garment.
The second approach is interesting because it allows you to work on actual collection models, with greater control over uniformity, resource consumption, and repeatability.
Today, the sector is moving decisively towards fluorine-free solutions (based on silicone, paraffin, acrylic, or branched polymers called dendrimers), while fluorinated chemicals are subject to increasingly stringent restrictions.
The duration of this treatment depends on use: the effect may diminish with washing and abrasion, but it can often be reactivated with moderate heat (low-temperature dryer or ironing with a cloth) and restored with re-proofing products, either in spray form or added the washing machine.

In the garment finishing industry, the goal is not only to achieve the desired effect, but to do so efficiently by: using less water, less energy, and less product, while maintaining quality and replicability.
This is where approaches such as controlled spraying of auxiliaries come into play, improving precision and reducing waste; digital consumption monitoring, useful for measuring the real impact of cycles and recipes; and the use of ozone in specific washing or oxidation stages to simplify processes.
These are examples that companies such as Tonello have been promoting for some time as part of a commitment to responsible industrial practices, because they help to design efficient and transparent cycles.
Water repellency fits into this framework as one of many possible treatments: the point is not “which machine” is the most suitable, but the process design and the ability to choose the right formula for the right garment, verify the results, and maintain them over time.

The debate over sustainability has accelerated the transition from fluorinated products to fluorine-free alternatives.
In Europe, PFAS are currently subject to severe restrictions, prompting suppliers and brands to rethink formulations and procedures.
For those who design a collection or simply need to buy a garment, this translates into more informed choices: preferring fluorine-free finishes when the required performance allows it; considering circularity (a garment that lasts longer has less impact); investing in traceability, so that it is possible to demonstrate how a certain result was achieved and what resources were used.
The good news is that digitizing processes helps to clarify things and transform sustainability from a promise into a measurable practice.

Water-repellent fabric: a particularly practical choice

Choosing a water-repellent garment makes sense when you move between indoors and outdoors, when the weather is changeable and you want to stay dry without sacrificing breathability.
For daily commutes, travel, short hikes, or jobs that involve frequent movement, it is often the most comfortable solution.
A true waterproof garment remains unbeatable in extreme or prolonged conditions, but it can be warmer and less comfortable to wear in normal situations.
Before buying, ask yourself how much time you actually spend in the rain, how much freedom of movement you need, how important the weight of the garment will be, and what kind of upkeep you are willing to do.
In the case of a water-repellent garment, if the water no longer “beads up” as it did at the beginning, try thermal reactivation (i.e. moderate heat to reactivate the treatment: for example, 10–15 minutes in a dryer set at a low-temperature or try a quick pass with a protective cloth between the garment an iron), or you can use a targeted water-repellent re-treatment (which can be done at home with sprays, or additives in the washing machine); for technical or work garments, you can contact a professional service. These are quick procedures often used to restore the garment to its original performance.

This article aims to be a practical guide to understanding the differences between water-repellent, water-resistant, and waterproof; knowing how the effect is achieved, and how to maintain it over time. The next step is to check by observing how water behaves on your garment, check the garment’s breathability under the same conditions that it is actually used in, and when the effect wears off, reactivate it with thermal reactivation or targeted re-treatment.
Materials, climate, and habits matter more than labels: choosing based on actual use is the easiest way to extend the life of a garment and reduce its overall impact.