Plant-based textile fibers: the green soul of fabrics

When we talk about natural fibers, we immediately think of wool or silk, but it’s the plant kingdom that provides most of the threads used in textiles: a fact that may be surprising, but is certainly also fascinating.

Plant-based textile fibers come from the seeds, stems, and leaves of plants that have been with us since the dawn of human history. Some of these fibers, such as linen and cotton, were already known to the ancient Egyptians, while others, such as hemp and bamboo, have been rediscovered in more recent times due to their sustainability.

Plant fibers consist mainly of cellulose. Sometimes, as in the case of cotton, the cellulose is almost pure; in flax and hemp, however, it is mixed with lignin, a substance which makes the cell walls stiffer, and pectin, which acts as a natural binder between the fibers. Lignin forms in cell walls of woody plants, while pectin comes mainly from plant cell walls and is commonly extracted for industrial purposes from citrus fruits or apples.

Depending on which the part of the plant they are obtained from, these fibers are divided into three families: Bast or “Liberian fibers” (from liber, Latin for bark), obtained from the stem or bark. These fibers include flax, hemp, jute, and ramie and are long, resistant fibers, ideal for sturdy but breathable fabrics. Then there are leaf fibers, such as sisal, abaca (also known as Manila hemp), and henequen, obtained from the leaves of agave and other long-leaved tropical plants: these are stiffer and are used for ropes, rugs, and handicrafts. Finally, vegetable textile fibers from seeds or fruits, including cotton and kapok, are derived from the soft filaments that surround the seeds, ready to be harvested and spun.

Cotton
Cotton comes from the hairs that cover cotton seeds and is the most widely used plant fiber in the world, thanks to its softness and breathability. Its fineness allows it to be used to create lightweight fabrics such as jersey or heavier ones such as denim. The cultivation of cotton, as is often the case with large agricultural crops, requires a great deal of water and sometimes, unfortunately, the use of pesticides. Thankfully in recent years, research and environmental awareness have literally imposed the spread of organic varieties and regenerative agriculture programs that promote a more conscious use of natural resources.

Linen
Derived from the stem of the plant of the same name, linen is one of the oldest fibers in human history. It is cool to the touch and absorbs moisture, making it ideal for summer clothing. The fiber is durable but tends to crease. However, this is also part of its appeal, in line with the idea of a comfortable and informal look. It should also be noted that its cultivation requires less water than cotton.

Hemp
Until a few centuries ago, hemp was the “industrial” fiber par excellence. Today, it has come back into fashion due to its strength and small ecological footprint: it grows quickly, requires little water, and almost no pesticides. It is “rustic” and raw in nature, but when finely processed, it produces surprisingly soft fabrics. Hemp is the second most widely used plant fiber after cotton.

Jute and ramie
Jute, which is obtained from tropical plants, is sturdy and not very elastic. It is used for sacks, carpets, and furnishings. Ramie, also known as nettle fiber, has a sheen similar to silk and is very resistant; when mixed with cotton, its stability is improved.

Sisal, abaca e kapok
Sisal comes from the leaves of the agave sisalana plant, a species native to the Sisal region of Yucatán Peninsula (Mexico), from which it takes its name. It is stiff and resistant to wear, making it perfect for ropes and rugs. Abaca (or Manila hemp) is another plant-based textile fiber used for fine fabrics and ropes. Kapok is soft and light, with insulating properties, used for padding and life jackets.

Bamboo, soy, and other emerging fibers
In addition to traditional plant-based textile fibers, the market has been seeing a rise in materials such as bamboo and soy. Bamboo is often transformed into viscose (thus becoming, to all intents and purposes, an artificial fiber), but certain mechanical processes manage to maintain its status as a natural fiber. Soy comes from food industry waste and has been called “plant-based cashmere” due to its softness.

Plant-based fibers offer significant advantages: they are three-dimensional, meaning they have a naturally irregular, hollow structure that traps air and promotes breathability, as well as being breathable and comfortable against the skin. They come from renewable sources and are biodegradable. At the same time, cultivating and processing them can have environmental impacts related to the use of water, the use of land, and the use of chemicals. This is why it is essential to support sustainable agricultural practices, organic certifications, and transparent supply chains.

The future of plant-based textile fibers is already here: from research into crops that require fewer resources to the rediscovery of forgotten species, and moving on to innovations in spinning and dyeing. A fabric made from plant fibers is not just a return to nature, it’s a step towards a circular economy where every fiber can be reborn into a new life cycle.

It’s impossible to talk about plant-based textile fibers without mentioning the most advanced and innovative dyeing techniques. Today, technology offers truly sustainable solutions. One example is Wake, the first natural dyeing system developed by Tonello. Wake uses only plants and plant waste (flowers, berries, and roots) without harmful chemical additives. This technology significantly reduces water and energy consumption and guarantees a healthy and safe process for the consumer.

Want to find out how this innovation fits into the world of plant-based textile fibers?
Visit the page dedicated to Wake: from the Earth to the Heart.